GROWTH FACTOR PEPTIDES IN COSMETICS: WHAT ARE THEY AND WHY IS ALL OF KOREA TALKING ABOUT THEM?
If a few years ago the world of Korean cosmetics focused primarily on peptides, followed later by PDRN and exosomes, today there is increasing talk about another group of advanced ingredients – growth factor peptides.
They can be found in advanced skincare formulas – serums, creams, and eye care products – yet for many, these ingredients still sound mysterious. What exactly are they? Do they differ from regular peptides? And why are they being used more and more frequently in modern Korean cosmetics?
In this article, we will explain everything simply – without complex scientific terms.
WHAT ARE GROWTH FACTOR PEPTIDES?
WHAT ARE GROWTH FACTOR PEPTIDES?
Numerous interrelated processes are constantly taking place in human skin. They involve various biological signaling molecules, also known as growth factors.
Modern cosmetics most commonly use not natural human growth factors, but rather their biomimetic analogues or biotechnologically produced forms, designed to mimic certain natural biological signals.
Therefore, in the ingredients list, you will usually see not the term Growth Factor, but INCI names such as:
- sh-Oligopeptide-1
- sh-Oligopeptide-2
- sh-Polypeptide-1
- sh-Polypeptide-3
- sh-Polypeptide-22
The letters "sh" stand for synthetic human – ingredients created in a laboratory using biotechnology, which are not derived from human tissues.
It is important to understand that these names do not mean that the cosmetic product contains natural human growth factors. These are laboratory-created ingredients designed to mimic specific biological signals.
HOW DO THEY DIFFER FROM REGULAR PEPTIDES?
HOW DO THEY DIFFER FROM REGULAR PEPTIDES?
Not all peptides are the same.
Different groups of peptides perform different functions in cosmetics, which is why they are often used together in advanced formulas.
Signal peptides
This is one of the most commonly used groups of peptides in cosmetics.
For example:
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
- Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
They are often found in skincare products for mature skin.
Neuropeptides
This group of peptides is most commonly used in formulas intended for the treatment of expression lines.
One of the best-known examples:
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Growth factor peptides
These are biomimetic peptides designed to mimic the signals sent by certain natural growth factors.
Why are there more and more of them in Korean cosmetics?
Why are there more and more of them in Korean cosmetics?
A decade ago, most cosmetic products used one or two peptides. Today, cutting-edge formulas often combine several different groups of peptides, as each complements the others.
It is not uncommon to find the following in a single formula:
- signal peptides;
- copper peptides;
- neuropeptides;
- growth factor peptides.
Such a combination of ingredients allows for the creation of more complex and balanced skincare formulas.
Are growth factor peptides suitable for sensitive skin?
Are growth factor peptides suitable for sensitive skin?
Compared to acids or retinoids, growth factor peptides are generally not classified as the most skin-irritating cosmetic ingredients.
Therefore, they are often used in products that focus on skin comfort and the maintenance of the protective barrier.
However, for sensitive skin, it is crucial to evaluate the entire product formula. If a product contains many fragrances, essential oils, or other potentially irritating ingredients, it may not be suitable even if it contains advanced peptides.
And what about pink?
And what about pink?
This is one of the most common questions.
Currently, there is no reason to suggest that growth factor peptides are inherently unsuitable for rosacea-prone skin. They are not classified as ingredients that typically cause sensitivity.
However, for individuals with signs of rosacea, it is most important to evaluate the entire composition of the product. Fragrances, essential oils, alcohol, or strong acids usually have a greater impact on skin tolerance than the growth factor peptides themselves.
If your skin is sensitive or prone to rosacea, it is always recommended to start using a new cosmetic product gradually and monitor your individual skin reaction.
How do they differ from PDRN?
How do they differ from PDRN?
Although both ingredients are often mentioned together, they are not the same.
PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotides) is an ingredient based on DNA fragments, used in advanced skincare formulas.
Meanwhile, growth factor peptides are biomimetic peptides that mimic specific natural biological signals.
In modern Korean cosmetics, these technologies are often used together because they complement each other.
And how do they differ from exosomes?
And how do they differ from exosomes?
Exosomes are small extracellular vesicles that transport biological signals between cells.
Simply put, they can be compared to biological "couriers".
Growth factor peptides are a type of signal that cosmetic formulas aim to replicate using biomimetic technologies.
Therefore, these two technologies are not competitors – in advanced formulas, they are often used together.
With what ingredients do they pair best?
With what ingredients do they pair best?
Growth factor peptides are often combined with:
- PDRN;
- exosomes;
- copper peptides;
- signaling peptides;
- ceramides;
- hyaluronic acid;
- niacinamide.
It is precisely these ingredient combinations that are most commonly found today in advanced Korean cosmetic formulas.
Is it worth choosing cosmetics with growth factor peptides?
Is it worth choosing cosmetics with growth factor peptides?
If you are looking for advanced skincare, it is worth paying attention not only to the quantity of peptides, but also to their variety.
Products that combine signal peptides, growth factor peptides, copper peptides, and other active ingredients often feature more complex formulas than standard peptide products.
The most important thing to remember is that a good cosmetic product is determined not by a single "miracle" ingredient, but by a well-thought-out combination of the entire formula.
Recommended
If you want to try cosmetics with growth factor peptides, choose products that combine them with other advanced active ingredients, such as signal or copper peptides, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or PDRN. These are the types of formulas that best reflect the modern direction of Korean cosmetics – where different technologies complement each other in a single product.
orgahue - Mela Barrier Cream - face cream
Choose your option
orgahue - Peptide 104 Wrinkle Shot Eyemask - overnight eye mask
Choose your option
Numbuzin - No.9 NAD PDRN Glow Boosting Toner
Choose your option
Numbuzin - No.9 NAD Retinol Volumetox Eye Cream
Choose your option
Numbuzin - No.9 NAD+ Retinal Volumetox Eye Cream Tube Type
Choose your option
VT Cosmetics - PDRN Reedle Shot Eye Lifter
Choose your option
numbuzin - No.9 NAD+ Collagen Under Eye Patches
Choose your option
Sungboon Editor - Silk Peptide Intensive Lifting Ampoule
Choose your option
Choose your option
F.A.Q.
Are growth factor peptides the same as EGF?
Are growth factor peptides the same as EGF?
No. EGF is one type of growth factor, while cosmetics typically use biomimetic peptides or their biotechnologically produced analogs.
Can growth factor peptides be used in conjunction with retinol?
Can growth factor peptides be used in conjunction with retinol?
Yes. These active ingredients are often used in the same skincare routine. It is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and monitor your individual skin reaction.
Do growth factor peptides go well with vitamin C?
Do growth factor peptides go well with vitamin C?
Yes. In modern formulas, peptides are often combined with antioxidants, including vitamin C.
Are they suitable for the skin under the eyes?
Are they suitable for the skin under the eyes?
Yes. Growth factor peptides are frequently used in eye care products because this area is thinner and more sensitive than the rest of the facial skin.
Do more peptides always mean a better product?
Do more peptides always mean a better product?
No. It is much more important which groups of peptides are used and how they are combined with other active ingredients.
This article was prepared based on scientific publications regarding peptides, biotechnological growth factors, and the operating principles of modern cosmetic ingredients. The article is for educational purposes and does not replace an individual consultation with a dermatologist or healthcare professional.
